ARRIVING & DEPARTING

By Bus Long-haul and commuter bus lines feed into the Port Authority Terminal (tel. 212/564-8484) on Broadway between 40th and 42nd streets. The George Washington Bridge Bus Station (tel. 212/564-1114) is at Fort Washington Avenue and Broadway between 178th and 179th streets in the Washington Heights section of Manhattan. Six bus lines, serving northern New Jersey and Rockland County, New York, make daily stops there from 5 AM to 1 AM. The terminal connects with the 175th Street Station on Subway A, making it slightly more convenient for travelers going to and from the West Side. For information on interstate buses, contact: Greyhound Lines Inc. (tel. 212/971-6404 or 800/231-2222); Adirondack, Pine Hill, and New York Trailways (tel. 800/225-6815) from upstate New York; Bonanza Bus Lines (tel. 800/556-3815) from New England; Martz Trailways (tel. 800/233-8604) from Philadelphia and northeastern Pennsylvania; New Jersey Transit (tel. 973/762-5100) from around New Jersey; Peter Pan Trailways (tel. 413/781-2900 or 800/343-9999 ) from New England; or Vermont Transit (tel. 802/864-6811 or 800/451-3292) from New England.

By Train Amtrak trains from points across the United States arrive at Penn Station (W. 31st to 33rd Sts., between 7th and 8th Aves.). For trains from New York City to Long Island and New Jersey, take the Long Island Railroad and New Jersey Transit respectively; both operate from Penn Station. Metro-North Commuter Railroad trains take passengers from Grand Central Terminal (E. 42nd St. at Park Ave.) to points north of New York City, both in New York State and Connecticut. Train schedules are available from Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245); Long Island Railroad (tel. 718/217-5477); Metro-North Commuter Railroad (tel. 212/340-3000); New Jersey Transit (tel. 201/762-5100); and PATH (tel. 800/234-7284).

GETTING AROUND

By Boat & Ferry Ferries run from South Ferry to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. The fare is $7;tickets are sold at Castle Clinton in the adjacent Battery Park. The Staten Island Ferry travels between South Ferry and Staten Island. The ride is free. NY Waterway has Yankee Clipper ferries taking passengers from Manhattan ($10) and New Jersey ($15) to Yankee Stadium. For more information, contact Castle Clinton (tel. 212/269-5755), Staten Island Ferry (tel. 718/390-5253), or NY Waterway (tel. 201/902-8700 or 800/533-3779).

By Bus Most buses follow easy-to-understand routes along the Manhattan grid. Routes go up or down the north-south avenues, or east and west on the major two-way crosstown streets. Most bus routes operate 24 hours, but service is infrequent late at night. Buses are great for sightseeing, but traffic jams--a potential threat at any time or place in Manhattan--can make rides maddeningly slow. Certain bus routes now offer "Limited-Stop Service"; buses on these routes stop only at major cross streets and transfer points and can save traveling time. The "Limited-Stop" buses usually run on weekdays and during rush hours. Actually finding the bus stop will be much easier than in the past. New bus stop signs were introduced in the fall of 1996 and completed throughout the city by 1998. Look for a light-blue sign (or green for an express bus) on a green pole; bus numbers and routes are listed, with the current stop's name underneath. Bus fare is the same as subway fare: $1.50, in coins (no change is given) or a subway token or MetroCard. When using a token or cash, you can ask the driver for a free transfer coupon, good for one change to an intersecting route. Legal transfer points are listed on the back of the slip. Transfers have time limits of at least two hours, often longer. You cannot use the transfer to enter the subway system. However, you can transfer free from bus to subway or subway to bus with the MetroCard. You must start with the MetroCard and use it again within two hours to complete your trip. Route maps and schedules are posted at many bus stops in Manhattan and at major stops throughout the other boroughs. Each of the five boroughs of New York has a separate bus map, and they are scarcer than hens' teeth. They are available from some subway token booths, but never on buses. The best places to obtain them are the Convention and Visitors Bureau at Columbus Circle or the information kiosks in Grand Central Terminal and Penn Station. Seven-day MetroCards allow you take unlimited trips during a weeklong period for $17. If you will ride more than 12 times, this is the card to get. For schedule and route information, contact New York City Transit (MTA, tel. 718/330-1234), available daily 6-9, or the status information hot line (tel. 718/243-7777), which is updated hourly 6-9.

By Car If you plan to drive into Manhattan, try to time your arrival for late morning or early afternoon. That way you'll avoid the morning and evening rush hours (a problem at the crossings into Manhattan) and lunch hour. The deterioration of the bridges linking Manhattan, especially those spanning the East River, is a serious problem, and repairs will be ongoing for the next few years. Don't be surprised if a bridge is partially or entirely closed. Driving within Manhattan can be a nightmare of gridlocked streets and predatory motorists. Free parking is difficult to find in midtown, and violators may be towed away literally within minutes. All over town, parking lots charge exorbitant rates--as much as $15 for two hours in some neighborhoods. If you do drive, don't plan to use your car much for traveling within Manhattan. Instead, try to park it in a guarded parking garage for at least several hours; the sting of hourly rates lessens if a car is left for a significant amount of time. If you find a spot on the street, be sure to check parking signs carefully, as times differ from block to block. CAR RENTALS Rates in New York City begin at $85 a day and $325 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 13 1/4%. At Home Alamo (tel. 800/327-9633; 0800/272-2000 in the United Kingdom). Avis (tel. 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 008/225-533 in Australia). Budget (tel. 800/527-0700; 0800/181181 in the United Kingdom). Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000; 0990/565656 in the United Kingdom, where it is known as Eurodollar). Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 0345/555888 in the United Kingdom; 03/9222-2523 in Australia; 03/358-6777 in New Zealand). National InterRent (tel. 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom, where it is known as Europcar InterRent). REQUIREMENTS In New York you must be 18 to rent a car. You'll pay extra for child seats (about $3 per day), which are compulsory for children under five, and for additional drivers (about $2 per day). Non-U.S. residents will need a reservation voucher, a passport, a driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver, in order to pick up a car. GASOLINE Fill up your tank when you have a chance--gas stations are few and far between. If you can, fill up at stations outside the city, where prices will be 10 or 20 cents cheaper per gallon. The average price of a gallon of regular unleaded is $1.59, although prices can vary from station to station. RULES OF THE ROAD On city streets the speed limit is 30 mph. In the front and in the back, seat belts should be worn at all times. There is no right turn on red within the city limits.

By Limousine If you want to ride around Manhattan in style, rent a chauffeur-driven car from one of many limousine services. Companies usually charge by the hour or offer a flat fee for sightseeing excursions. Contact All State Car and Limousine Service (tel. 212/741-7440); Bermuda Limousine International (tel. 212/249-8400); Carey Limousines (tel. 212/599-1122); Carmel Car and Limousine Service (tel. 212/666-6666); Chris Limousines (tel. 718/356-3232 or 800/542-1584); Concord Limousine Inc. (tel. 212/230-1600 or 800/255-7255); Eastside Limo Service (tel. 212/744-9700); Greenwich Limousine (tel. 212/868-4733 or 800/385-1033); or London Towncars (tel. 212/988-9700 or 800/221-4009).

By Subway The 714-mi subway system operates 24 hours a day and, especially within Manhattan, serves most of the places you'll want to visit. It's cheaper than a cab and, during the workweek, often faster than either cabs or buses. The trains have been rid of their graffiti (some New Yorkers, of course, miss the colorful old trains), and air-conditioned cars predominate on every line. Still, the New York subway is not problem-free. Many trains are crowded and noisy. Although trains usually run frequently, especially during rush hours, you never know when some incident somewhere on the line may stall traffic. Don't write off the subway--some 3.5 million passengers ride it every day without incident--but stay alert. Subway fares are $1.50, and reduced fares are available for senior citizens and people with disabilities during nonrush hours. If you're just taking a few trips, you should pay with tokens; they are sold at token booths that are usually open at each station, as well as at token vending machines. Buy several tokens at one time to avoid having to wait in line later. For four or more subway trips, you might find it easier to use the New York City Transit (MTA)'s MetroCard Gold, a thin, plastic card with a magnetic strip; swipe it through the reader at the turnstile, and the cost of the fare is automatically deducted. When you put $15 or more on a MetroCard you get one free fare, making the card worthwhile if you are planning on using the subway often. They are sold at all subway stations and at some stores--look for an "Authorized Sales Agent" sign. You can buy a card for a minimum of $3 (two trips) and a maximum of $80, in $6 increments. You can add more money to a card, and more than one person can use the same card: swipe it through the turnstile once for each rider. Both tokens and MetroCards permit unlimited transfers within the system. When you use the MetroCard, you can transfer free from bus to subway or subway to bus within two hours. Most subway entrances are at street corners and are marked by lampposts with globe-shape green lights. Subway lines are named for numbers and letters, such as the 3 line or the A line. Some lines run "express" and skip lots of stops; others are "locals" and make all stops. Each station entrance has a sign indicating the lines that run through the station; some stations are also marked "uptown only" or "downtown only." Before entering subway stations, read the signs carefully--one of the most frequent mistakes visitors make is taking the train in the wrong direction--although this can be an adventure, it can also be frustrating if you're in a hurry. Maps of the full subway system are posted on trains near the doors and at stations. You can usually pick up free maps at token booths, too. For route information, ask the token clerk, a transit policeman, or a fellow rider. Once New Yorkers realize you're harmless, most bend over backward to be helpful. For schedule and route information, contact New York City Transit (MTA, tel. 718/330-1234), available daily 6-9.

By Taxi Taxis are usually easy to hail on the street or from a taxi rank in front of major hotels, though finding one at rush hour or in the rain can take some time. You can tell if a cab is available by checking its rooftop light; if the center panel is lit and the side panels dark, the driver is ready to take passengers. Taxi fares cost $2 for the first 1/5 mi, 30 cents for each 1/5 mi thereafter, and 20 cents for each minute not in motion. A 50-cent surcharge is added to rides begun between 8 PM and 6 AM. There is no charge for extra passengers, but you must pay any bridge or tunnel tolls incurred during your trip (sometimes a driver will personally pay a toll to keep moving quickly, but that amount will be added to the fare when the ride is over). Taxi drivers expect a 15% tip. To avoid unhappy taxi experiences, try to have a general idea of where you want to go. A few cab drivers are dishonest; some are ignorant; some can barely understand English. If you have no idea of the proper route, you may be taken for a long and costly ride.

On Foot The cheapest, sometimes the fastest, and usually the most interesting way to explore this city is by walking. Because New Yorkers by and large live in apartments rather than in houses, and travel by cab, bus, or subway rather than by private car, they end up walking quite a lot. As a result, street life is a vital part of the local culture. On crowded sidewalks, people gossip, snack, browse, cement business deals, make romantic rendezvous, encounter long-lost friends, and fly into irrational quarrels with strangers. It's a wonderfully democratic hubbub. A typical New Yorker, if there is such an animal, walks quickly and focuses intently on dodging around cars, buses, bicycle messengers, construction sites, and other pedestrians. Although this might make natives seem hurried and rude, they will often cheerfully come to the aid of a lost pedestrian, so don't hesitate to ask a passerby for directions.